May 14 to June 02, 2006

Dear Friends,

At the eastern edge of the Himalayas, lies a land isolated for centuries by high mountains and three great rivers (Yangtze, Mekong and Salween). Rumoured to be the inspiration for the fabled Shangri La in James Hilton’s Lost Horizon, the former Tibetan province of Kham straddles the eastern part of modern-day Tibet, and areas of Yunnan and Sichuan provinces in China.

This is a trip for those who want to venture beyond the beaten path, and along the road less-travelled. It is a trip of amazing beauty, and a chance to witness ways of life that have existed for centuries. You may find at the end of your trip, that you have indeed found Shangri La.

We begin in Kunming, China and fly to the ancient town of Lijiang, a United Nations World Heritage Site, and home of the Naxi people. We drive through stunning scenery to the higher altitudes that are home to the fabled Khampa clans.

Gyalthang is an historic caravan point and our introduction to Tibetan culture, including a visit to Sumtsenling Monastery (the second largest outside of Lhasa). We then begin our journey into the “Wild East.” Rugged mountains, steep gorges, rhododendron forests, flower meadows, fortress-like houses, mighty rivers and green meadows dotted with yaks are all part of the backdrop along the winding mountain roads as we make our way into the nomad lands.

We visit a nature preserve among the sacred mountains, Three Brother Protectors, before heading to Lithang, one of the highest towns in the world (>4000m). Here we are truly in nomad country and will learn about this disappearing way of life.

From Lithang we descend to the low-lying fertile valley of Bathang, a major trading and educational centre. We cross into Tibet to Markham, situated between the Mekong and Yangtze Rivers. On the crossroads to Lhasa, it is one of the most active centres in the traditional caravan trading economy and known for its “Wild West” atmosphere.

We follow the Mekong into Tsakhalo, once an important source of salt, and then to Jol where the jagged peaks of Khawakarpo belong to one of the holiest mountains in Tibetan Buddhism.

We return to Gyalthang in time for the Horse Festival held annually during the 5th month of the Tibetan lunar calendar. This is the highlight of the summer for the locals, and provides an opportunity to witness the skilled horsemanship for which the Khampas are renowned.

This will be my sixth trip to this area. I would love to show you why I am drawn back again and again.

Cheers,

Sherry Kirkvold

Our proposed Itinerary follows; a map is available:

Day 01, Sunday May 14:
Arrive Kunming and check into Harbour Plaza Hotel. Arguably the most open and relaxed of China’s provincial capitals and one that is at the crossroads of so many cultures and civilisations - SE Asian, highland-Tibetan and Chinese. Kunming is often called the ’City of Spring’ due to its year-round mild climate. It still has traces of the old city and its semi-colonial French influences. Visit the Bird & Flower market, stroll around and sip tea by Green Lake and in the evening we can try Cross-the-bridge-noodles, the specialty of Kunming.
Early rest to fight off the jet lag at Harbour Plaza Hotel

Day 02, Monday May 15:
Morning flight Kunming-Lijiang and full day tour. An early flight to Lijiang (2400 m) provides an initial chance for altitude acclimatization. Lijiang is the centre of the Naxi people and an intriguing and beautiful town recently proclaimed as a World Heritage Site with its ancient canal system, thriving central market, traditional courtyard architecture and cobblestone paths. We visit Longquan and Baisha villages and Black Dragon Pool (Heilongtang). Afternoon visit to the Naxi Dongba museum and walk around the Old-town of Lijiang. In the evening we meet Xuan Ke, and hear his Orchestra perform traditional Naxi music.
Overnight at Jiannan Chun in old town Lijiang (requires a 10-minute walk through the old town upon arrival and departure due to environmental regulations)

Day 03, Tuesday May 16: Lijiang - Full day cultural tour:
After breakfast, we take a day trip to Lashi Nature Preserve (elevation 2600 m). Situated along the southeastern slopes of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (5500 m) and surrounded by mountains, the Lashi Lake basin is a spectacular setting for exploring Lijiang’s countryside. The area is home to a population of over 20,000 Naxi and Yi people living traditional rural lifestyles. The Naxi culture—predominant around Lashi Lake—generally remains very traditional in its customs, music, dance, and architecture. Yi settlements are found higher up Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The Yi were known as fierce warriors and an offshoot of the tribes that belonged to the Nanzhao dynasty. Living in the higher up slopes and growing potatoes and corn and occasionally opium, Yi generally do not have much contact with outsiders, although they are very friendly and welcoming to guests. The best way to explore the villages are by walking but you have the option to hike, bicycle or ride horses.
Overnight at Jiannan Chun

Day 04, Wednesday May 17: Drive Lijiang-Gyalthang through the Tiger Leaping Gorge.
After breakfast, drive 3 hours—mostly descending—to Shigu at the First Bend of the Yangtze river, fittingly called the River of Golden Sand in this region. We continue along the Yangtze to Samkha or Qiatou for lunch before arriving at Tiger Leaping Gorge where the Yangtze is believed to be at its narrowest, sandwiched between the Jade Dragon Mountains and the Haba range. After walking around the Gorge, we will drive up through pine, fir and spruce forests and may see some rhododendrons in bloom before we reach the dryer plateau covered in azalea bushes at 3370m.
Overnight at the Dzong-style architecture Gyalthang Hotel in Gyalthang

Day 05, Thursday, May 18: Gyalthang - cultural tour:
Today we take a cultural tour of Gyalthang, including Sumtsenling Monastery built by the 5th Dalai Lama in the 17th century. The morning will focus on the Sumtsenling Monastery where we will witness prayers at the Main Assembly Hall and get an overall picture of monastic life and culture by visiting the various chapels and monk’s quarters. In the afternoon we will take a trip to the alpine Lake Shudu, one of the main grazing pastures of Gyalthang’s nomads and a botanical paradise with carpets of wildflowers including primulas, gentians, buttercups and irises. Time permitting, we can do a short hike around the lake.
Overnight at Gyalthang Hotel

Day 06, Friday, May 19: Gyalthang - cultural tour
Today we take a short (20km) drive to holy Ringa Temple—located on a small hill surrounded by pine forests and fluttering prayer flags. This temple is one of the oldest Buddhist pilgrimage sites in Eastern Tibet. The Ringa is believed to hold the sacred key to the famous Buddhist pilgrimage around Mt. Chicken Foot and Erhai Lake near Dali (Yunnan). After washing up at the hotel, we continue to Trinyi Village, the hometown of our local guides where we will enjoy an evening of traditional Tibetan hotpot dinner and dance with the villagers at the Community Centre.
Overnight at Gyalthang Hotel

Day 07, Saturday, May 20: Drive Gyalthang-Chatreng
We begin our overland journey in earnest departing in a NE direction towards Chatreng, which will take 6-7 hours. As we enter Gyetsa and Towang districts, the terrain gets greener and wildflowers will be in bloom as we take on the two passes of Xiao Xue Shang and Daxue Shan. After crossing the latter, we enter more fertile valleys and the architecture also begins changing to the fortress-like compact adobes. Visit the Sampheling Monastery, completely raised during the Cultural Revolution but now restored in grand fashion. Although the monastery was originally Kagyu, the Mongolian army razed it in the 17th century during the 5th Dalai Lama’s most aggressive Gelukpa expansion in frontier areas.
Overnight at hotel

Days 8 & 9, Sunday & Monday, May 21 & 22: Chatreng-Dobpa (Chin. Daocheng)
Drive around 6.5 hours to Sumdo where the terrain gets rocky and dryer. We are now in nomad country. We visit one of the oldest Karmapa monasteries in Kham and then continue East towards Dobpa. We will visit the Yading Nature Reserve, home of three sacred Tibetan mountains all soaring to around 6000 m, and collectively called Risum Gonpo or the “Three Brother Protectors.” Tibetan Buddhists believe that making a kora (pilgrimage) around these mountains brings great merit, and that the three mountains represent compassion, wisdom and energy. The scenery here easily rivals that of national parks of the west in terms of spectacular, pristine mountain scenery and glacial lakes. Early 20th century explorer and plant hunter, Joseph Rock, called the area the ’Holy Mountain of the Outlaws,’ as it became a robber stronghold. We also visit the Chongu Monastery called the Bandit Monastery by Rock.
“Various green shades of the trees contrast marvelously and are enhanced by long streamers of pale-yellow lichens which festoon every branch. The clear atmosphere and the many vari-colored rhododendrons, with their undergrowth of primulas and peonies form indeed a garden of the gods.” - Joseph Rock.
Night at guest house or similar rustic accomodations

Day 10, Tuesday, May 23: Drive Daocheng-Lithang
Drive around 6.5 hours. Drive back to Sumdo and then continue North-west. We cross a rocky expanse with patches of pine forests before we get to the rolling grasslands of Lithang. Enroute we visit Drakar (White Rock) monastery with its colourful prayer flags, incense and smell of juniper.
Hotel overnight

Days 11 & 12, Wednesday & Thursday, May 24 & 25: Lithang - Full day cultural tour
First day we spend paying our respects to Lithang Monastery towering and overlooking the town below, which shows us how much Buddhism held sway in this frontier town. Bombed in the 1950s, the monastery has been completely rebuilt. We also visit the seventh Dalai Lama’s birthplace and local market and time permitting visit the hot spring. Next day, we take an excursion to the grasslands of Banyak where we spend a day with the Lithang nomads. Picnic lunch in the grasslands and possibility of some horse riding.
Hotel overnight

Day 13, Friday, May 26: Drive Lithang-Bathang
After breakfast we continue to the traditional centre of Ba or Bathang about 6-7 hours from Lithang. Bathang is in a warmer, lower fertile valley (2700m) at the confluence of the Bachu and Yangtze rivers. It is a very religious Tibetan town but saw a lot of modernization efforts and Chinese settlement right from the turn of the 20th century. Besides being a major trading and educational centre in Kham - the first Teachers College in Kham was built here—the region was also a place where American Protestants and French Catholic missionaries were active. The cheerful Ba music and dance is sung across all valleys of the Bali Gyalsum region.
Night at guest house or similar rustic accomodations

Day 14, Saturday, May 27: Drive Bathang-Markham
Today, we drive 7 hours or so to Markham which translates as the “Red Valleys.” Located in between the Mekong and the Yangtze rivers, Markham straddles the crossroads to Lhasa from Chamdo, Dartsedo (Kangding), as well as Gyalthang, making it one of the most active centres in the traditional caravan trading economy. Markham has a “Wild West” atmosphere where macho-men with long hair tied in red sashes walk the streets adorned with large turquoise and coral jewellery. We also visit the monastery in Gartok, the capital of Markham.
Night at guest house or similar rustic accomodations

Day 15, Sunday, May 28: Drive Markham-Tsakhalo (Chin. Yanjing)
Drive 6 hours or so to Tsakhalo along the Mekong River valley into the Khawakarpo region and the Mekong watershed. Tsakhalo was once the main source of salt for half of the Kham Tibetan area. We will visit the salt fields and a hotspring by the Mekong River. A spectacular peak can be seen on the west side of the river, part of the Khawakarpo chain which runs further south. As Tsakhalo was also an important trading outpost, Lijiang’s Naxi traders also made their homes here since ancient times. French missionaries also had a base here. At 3100 m, the area is mostly gorge country - typically dry and shrubby with patches of coniferous cover.
Night at guest house or similar rustic accomodations

Day 16, Monday, May 29: Drive Tsakhalo- Jol (Chin. Dechen)
Today we continue the drive south along the Mekong gorges for five hours to Jol or Dechen, which sits opposite the holy Khawakarpo range.
Overnight at hotel

Day 17, Tuesday, May 30: Jol - Full day cultural tour / or Day-trip to Tsedro
After lighting Juniper and incense among pilgrims, we will take a drive to Tsedro (Cizhong), a Tibetan Catholic village. An active church still stands in this charming village where hymns are sung in Tibetan to this day and where the French missionaries apparently taught winemaking. The drainage system as well as the vineyards will show us some of these historical, European influences in a rural setting.
Overnight at hotel
(Note: As of Oct 2004, the road was still being built. If it is not driveable in 2006, the full day programme can be centred in the Jol town area!)

Day 18, Wednesday, May 31: Drive Jol - Gyalthang
After rising early for sunrise view of Khawakarpo and a Tibetan breakfast, we drive to Gyalthang which will take us 6-7 hours. We first pass the jagged peaks of Jol Gongsum at the pass (4295 m) before we descend towards Kungzera. Here we can see different species of rhododendrons. This area has aptly been designated one of the largest National Reserves in Southwest China. The region has thousands of species of plants and is also home to some endangered animals including the Snub-nosed Monkey (also called Golden-haired monkey).

We visit the Nunnery, the Dhondupling Monastery and Kungzera School before we hit the town on the banks of the Yangtze for lunch. We continue the drive through Gonjo (artisan town) and then a steep ascent to Thangthoe (pottery town) where corn and barley are staples before we get to the Gyalthang plateau. As the Gyalthang plateau and Napha Lake comes into view, we can make a stop to hunt for the elusive blue poppy. Once in Gyalthang, we will head to the annual Horse Festival where we get a day and a half to enjoy the Kham culture in a festive setting.
Overnight at the Gyalthang Hotel

Day 19, Thursday, June 01 : Morning - Horse Festival and Tibetan Medical Centre
We continue the day at the Gyalthang horse festival, visit the Tibetan Medical Centre, the local market and the Old Town.
Farewell dinner. Overnight at the Gyalthang Hotel

Day 20, Friday, June 02: Goodbye at Gyalthang Airport
Flight to Kunming where you will connect with international flights.

PLEASE NOTE:
Should you be interested in extending your stay in the Orient, Josephine will be happy to work with you on booking accommodations, tours, etc. As an example, direct flights from Gyalthang to Lhasa have recently begun, making a visit to this once hard-to-reach area an easy possibility.

 

TOUR RATE

$3,459.00 US per person based on double occupancy. Tour rate is based on minimum of 12 passengers travelling together.

DEPOSIT
A non-refundable deposit of $500.00 US is required in order to guarantee your space on this tour. Number of participants required to guarantee the quoted rate is 12.

BALANCE
Final payment is due prior to Friday, March 03, 2006.

CANCELLATION POLICY
Both the deposit and the balance amounts are non-refundable.

P.S. This tour is limited to a maximum number of participants. Reservation forms will be processed on a first come, first served basis.

RATE INCLUDES
- All accommodations in the best hotels and guest houses available. Please note that at some of the towns, the accommodation is very basic.
- All meals will be at select restaurants along the journey that offer local freshly cooked food including vegetables or meat dishes, dairy, fruit, etc.
- Transportation by Vans or Coaster buses depending on number of passengers in the group.
- From Day 7 on we switch transportation to Mitsubishi Pajero Jeeps.
- English speaking guides.
- All admission fees, permits, activities and sightseeing as per itinerary.
- Domestic flight from Kunming to Lijiang on Day 2.

RATE DOES NOT INCLUDE
- International airfare. Please see airfare information below.
- Medical and /or cancellation insurance.
- Items of a personal nature such as laundry and gifts etc.
- Airport taxes/fees where applicable.
- Discretionary tips as per leader’s suggestion.
- Passport and visa expenses.

AIRFARE
International airfare details including rate will be available mid January 2006.

“We will always do our best to ensure the best available airfare rates for the group. Tour Participants should be aware that some factors such as taxes, fuel surcharges, competition factors, etc. are beyond our control.”

VISA
A visa is required. Canadian citizens may follow the instructions provided by the Embassy of the People's Republic of China in Canada. US citizens may use the services of traveldocs.

RESERVATION FORM

Bookings cannot be processed unless accompanied by a completed, signed and dated Tour Reservation Form (2 pages).

For your convenience we also have a Credit Card authorization form. Payments by cheque are also accepted.

INSURANCE

Medical and Cancellation Insurance is strongly recommended in order to protect your investment. Cancellation Insurance must be requested at time of booking.

PASSPORTS

You are required to carry a valid passport with an expiry date of six (6) months past reentry into your home country.

VACCINATIONS

Please contact the travel clinic in your area for advice. British Columbia residents may consult Travel Medicine & Vaccination Centres. Telephone 604-681-5656 in Vancouver or toll free 1-888-288-8682.


Suggested Reading List

Goullart, Peter. Forgotten Kingdom. London: John Murray 1955
This book has been recently reprinted as a John Murray Travel Classic, which should make it easier to find. It is also available as an e-book. Dedicated to Joseph Rock, this book is the best I know of for describing life in Lijiang around the middle of the 20th century, and for describing the various cultural groups that lived in the area.

Goullart, Peter. Land of the Lamas: Adventures in secret Tibet. New York: E.P. Dutton & Co, Inc. 1959 (British edition Princes of the Black Bone)
More on Goullart’s time in this area with an emphasis on the Tibetan people.

David-Neel, Alexandra. My Journey to Lhasa. (1927) Boston: Beacon Press 1986
In 1923, at age 55, the author disguised herself as a pilgrim and made her way to Lhasa, where she was the first European woman to enter. Her adventurous and difficult travels took her through Kham. A good read.

Aris, Michael. Lamas, Princes and Brigands: Joseph Rock’s Photographs of the Tibetan Borderlands of China. New York: China Institute in America 1992
Joseph Rock was a self-trained botanist who developed a fascination with the peoples, cultures and geography of the frontier between Tibet and China and travelled there between 1922–1949. These are a collection of his photographs.

Rock, Joseph
Look for his photographs and articles in old National Geographics as well as his books.

MacKinnon, John and Karen Phillipps. A Field Guide to the Birds of China Oxford: Oxford University Press 2000
There is also a Smithsonian Field Guide but it is out of print and hard to find.

Hilton, James. Lost Horizon (1933) New York: Harper Collins 2004
Shangri La, described in this book, is thought be inspired in part by the writings of Joseph Rock as well as by the British climber George Mallory. Much of the area we travel is now referred to as Shangri La. This is also available on DVD as a film directed by Frank Capra.

Other books of interest would be those on Tibetan Buddhism, culture and history as well as books related to natural history.

Beginning of Itinerary


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Last updated April 9, 2006