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Dear Friends,
At the eastern edge of the Himalayas, lies a land isolated for
centuries by high mountains and three great rivers (Yangtze,
Mekong and Salween). Rumoured to be the inspiration for the
fabled Shangri La in James Hilton’s Lost Horizon, the former
Tibetan province of Kham straddles the eastern part of modern-day
Tibet, and areas of Yunnan and Sichuan provinces in China.
This is a trip for those who want to venture beyond the beaten
path, and along the road less-travelled. It is a trip of amazing
beauty, and a chance to witness ways of life that have existed
for centuries. You may find at the end of your trip, that you
have indeed found Shangri La.
We begin in Kunming, China and fly to the ancient town of Lijiang,
a United Nations World Heritage Site, and home of the Naxi people.
We drive through stunning scenery to the higher altitudes that
are home to the fabled Khampa clans.
Gyalthang is an historic caravan point and our introduction
to Tibetan culture, including a visit to Sumtsenling Monastery
(the second largest outside of Lhasa). We then begin our journey
into the “Wild East.” Rugged mountains, steep gorges, rhododendron
forests, flower meadows, fortress-like houses, mighty rivers
and green meadows dotted with yaks are all part of the backdrop
along the winding mountain roads as we make our way into the
nomad lands.
We visit a nature preserve among the sacred mountains, Three
Brother Protectors, before heading to Lithang, one of the highest
towns in the world (>4000m). Here we are truly in nomad country
and will learn about this disappearing way of life.
From Lithang we descend to the low-lying fertile valley of Bathang,
a major trading and educational centre. We cross into Tibet
to Markham, situated between the Mekong and Yangtze Rivers.
On the crossroads to Lhasa, it is one of the most active centres
in the traditional caravan trading economy and known for its
“Wild West” atmosphere.
We follow the Mekong into Tsakhalo, once an important source
of salt, and then to Jol where the jagged peaks of Khawakarpo
belong to one of the holiest mountains in Tibetan Buddhism.
We return to Gyalthang in time for the Horse Festival held annually
during the 5th month of the Tibetan lunar calendar. This is
the highlight of the summer for the locals, and provides an
opportunity to witness the skilled horsemanship for which the
Khampas are renowned.
This will be my sixth trip to this area. I would love to show
you why I am drawn back again and again.
Cheers,
Sherry Kirkvold |
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Our proposed Itinerary follows;
a map is available:
Day 01, Sunday May 14:
Arrive Kunming and check into Harbour Plaza Hotel. Arguably
the most open and relaxed of China’s provincial capitals and
one that is at the crossroads of so many cultures and civilisations
- SE Asian, highland-Tibetan and Chinese. Kunming is often called
the ’City of Spring’ due to its year-round mild climate. It
still has traces of the old city and its semi-colonial French
influences. Visit the Bird & Flower market, stroll around and
sip tea by Green Lake and in the evening we can try Cross-the-bridge-noodles,
the specialty of Kunming.
Early rest to fight off the jet lag at Harbour
Plaza Hotel
Day 02, Monday May 15:
Morning flight Kunming-Lijiang and full day tour. An early flight
to Lijiang (2400 m) provides an initial chance for altitude
acclimatization. Lijiang is the centre of the Naxi people and
an intriguing and beautiful town recently proclaimed as a World
Heritage Site with its ancient canal system, thriving central
market, traditional courtyard architecture and cobblestone paths.
We visit Longquan and Baisha villages and Black Dragon Pool
(Heilongtang). Afternoon visit to the Naxi Dongba museum and
walk around the Old-town of Lijiang. In the evening we meet
Xuan Ke, and hear his Orchestra perform traditional Naxi music.
Overnight at Jiannan Chun in old town Lijiang
(requires a 10-minute walk through the old town upon arrival
and departure due to environmental regulations)
Day 03, Tuesday May 16: Lijiang - Full day cultural tour:
After breakfast, we take a day trip to Lashi Nature Preserve
(elevation 2600 m). Situated along the southeastern slopes of
the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (5500 m) and surrounded by mountains,
the Lashi Lake basin is a spectacular setting for exploring
Lijiang’s countryside. The area is home to a population of over
20,000 Naxi and Yi people living traditional rural lifestyles.
The Naxi culture—predominant around Lashi Lake—generally remains
very traditional in its customs, music, dance, and architecture.
Yi settlements are found higher up Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
The Yi were known as fierce warriors and an offshoot of the
tribes that belonged to the Nanzhao dynasty. Living in the higher
up slopes and growing potatoes and corn and occasionally opium,
Yi generally do not have much contact with outsiders, although
they are very friendly and welcoming to guests. The best way
to explore the villages are by walking but you have the option
to hike, bicycle or ride horses.
Overnight at Jiannan Chun
Day 04, Wednesday May 17: Drive Lijiang-Gyalthang through
the Tiger Leaping Gorge.
After breakfast, drive 3 hours—mostly descending—to Shigu at
the First Bend of the Yangtze river, fittingly called the River
of Golden Sand in this region. We continue along the Yangtze
to Samkha or Qiatou for lunch before arriving at Tiger Leaping
Gorge where the Yangtze is believed to be at its narrowest,
sandwiched between the Jade Dragon Mountains and the Haba range.
After walking around the Gorge, we will drive up through pine,
fir and spruce forests and may see some rhododendrons in bloom
before we reach the dryer plateau covered in azalea bushes at
3370m.
Overnight at the Dzong-style architecture
Gyalthang Hotel in Gyalthang
Day 05, Thursday, May 18: Gyalthang - cultural tour:
Today we take a cultural tour of Gyalthang, including Sumtsenling
Monastery built by the 5th Dalai Lama in the 17th century. The
morning will focus on the Sumtsenling Monastery where we will
witness prayers at the Main Assembly Hall and get an overall
picture of monastic life and culture by visiting the various
chapels and monk’s quarters. In the afternoon we will take a
trip to the alpine Lake Shudu, one of the main grazing pastures
of Gyalthang’s nomads and a botanical paradise with carpets
of wildflowers including primulas, gentians, buttercups and
irises. Time permitting, we can do a short hike around the lake.
Overnight at Gyalthang Hotel
Day 06, Friday, May 19: Gyalthang - cultural tour
Today we take a short (20km) drive to holy Ringa Temple—located
on a small hill surrounded by pine forests and fluttering prayer
flags. This temple is one of the oldest Buddhist pilgrimage
sites in Eastern Tibet. The Ringa is believed to hold the sacred
key to the famous Buddhist pilgrimage around Mt. Chicken Foot
and Erhai Lake near Dali (Yunnan). After washing up at the hotel,
we continue to Trinyi Village, the hometown of our local guides
where we will enjoy an evening of traditional Tibetan hotpot
dinner and dance with the villagers at the Community Centre.
Overnight at Gyalthang Hotel
Day 07, Saturday, May 20: Drive Gyalthang-Chatreng
We begin our overland journey in earnest departing in a NE direction
towards Chatreng, which will take 6-7 hours. As we enter Gyetsa
and Towang districts, the terrain gets greener and wildflowers
will be in bloom as we take on the two passes of Xiao Xue Shang
and Daxue Shan. After crossing the latter, we enter more fertile
valleys and the architecture also begins changing to the fortress-like
compact adobes. Visit the Sampheling Monastery, completely raised
during the Cultural Revolution but now restored in grand fashion.
Although the monastery was originally Kagyu, the Mongolian army
razed it in the 17th century during the 5th Dalai Lama’s most
aggressive Gelukpa expansion in frontier areas.
Overnight at hotel
Days 8 & 9, Sunday & Monday, May 21 & 22: Chatreng-Dobpa
(Chin. Daocheng)
Drive around 6.5 hours to Sumdo where the terrain gets rocky
and dryer. We are now in nomad country. We visit one of the
oldest Karmapa monasteries in Kham and then continue East towards
Dobpa. We will visit the Yading Nature Reserve, home of three
sacred Tibetan mountains all soaring to around 6000 m, and collectively
called Risum Gonpo or the “Three Brother Protectors.” Tibetan
Buddhists believe that making a kora (pilgrimage) around these
mountains brings great merit, and that the three mountains represent
compassion, wisdom and energy. The scenery here easily rivals
that of national parks of the west in terms of spectacular,
pristine mountain scenery and glacial lakes. Early 20th century
explorer and plant hunter, Joseph Rock, called the area the
’Holy Mountain of the Outlaws,’ as it became a robber stronghold.
We also visit the Chongu Monastery called the Bandit Monastery
by Rock.
“Various green shades of the trees contrast marvelously and
are enhanced by long streamers of pale-yellow lichens which
festoon every branch. The clear atmosphere and the many vari-colored
rhododendrons, with their undergrowth of primulas and peonies
form indeed a garden of the gods.” - Joseph Rock.
Night at guest house or similar rustic accomodations
Day 10, Tuesday, May 23: Drive Daocheng-Lithang
Drive around 6.5 hours. Drive back to Sumdo and then continue
North-west. We cross a rocky expanse with patches of pine forests
before we get to the rolling grasslands of Lithang. Enroute
we visit Drakar (White Rock) monastery with its colourful prayer
flags, incense and smell of juniper.
Hotel overnight
Days 11 & 12, Wednesday & Thursday, May 24 & 25: Lithang
- Full day cultural tour
First day we spend paying our respects to Lithang Monastery
towering and overlooking the town below, which shows us how
much Buddhism held sway in this frontier town. Bombed in the
1950s, the monastery has been completely rebuilt. We also visit
the seventh Dalai Lama’s birthplace and local market and time
permitting visit the hot spring. Next day, we take an excursion
to the grasslands of Banyak where we spend a day with the Lithang
nomads. Picnic lunch in the grasslands and possibility of some
horse riding.
Hotel overnight
Day 13, Friday, May 26: Drive Lithang-Bathang
After breakfast we continue to the traditional centre of Ba
or Bathang about 6-7 hours from Lithang. Bathang is in a warmer,
lower fertile valley (2700m) at the confluence of the Bachu
and Yangtze rivers. It is a very religious Tibetan town but
saw a lot of modernization efforts and Chinese settlement right
from the turn of the 20th century. Besides being a major trading
and educational centre in Kham - the first Teachers College
in Kham was built here—the region was also a place where American
Protestants and French Catholic missionaries were active. The
cheerful Ba music and dance is sung across all valleys of the
Bali Gyalsum region.
Night at guest house or similar rustic accomodations
Day 14, Saturday, May 27: Drive Bathang-Markham
Today, we drive 7 hours or so to Markham which translates as
the “Red Valleys.” Located in between the Mekong and the Yangtze
rivers, Markham straddles the crossroads to Lhasa from Chamdo,
Dartsedo (Kangding), as well as Gyalthang, making it one of
the most active centres in the traditional caravan trading economy.
Markham has a “Wild West” atmosphere where macho-men with long
hair tied in red sashes walk the streets adorned with large
turquoise and coral jewellery. We also visit the monastery in
Gartok, the capital of Markham.
Night at guest house or similar rustic accomodations
Day 15, Sunday, May 28: Drive Markham-Tsakhalo (Chin. Yanjing)
Drive 6 hours or so to Tsakhalo along the Mekong River valley
into the Khawakarpo region and the Mekong watershed. Tsakhalo
was once the main source of salt for half of the Kham Tibetan
area. We will visit the salt fields and a hotspring by the Mekong
River. A spectacular peak can be seen on the west side of the
river, part of the Khawakarpo chain which runs further south.
As Tsakhalo was also an important trading outpost, Lijiang’s
Naxi traders also made their homes here since ancient times.
French missionaries also had a base here. At 3100 m, the area
is mostly gorge country - typically dry and shrubby with patches
of coniferous cover.
Night at guest house or similar rustic accomodations
Day 16, Monday, May 29: Drive Tsakhalo- Jol (Chin. Dechen)
Today we continue the drive south along the Mekong gorges for
five hours to Jol or Dechen, which sits opposite the holy Khawakarpo
range.
Overnight at hotel
Day 17, Tuesday, May 30: Jol - Full day cultural tour
/ or Day-trip to Tsedro
After lighting Juniper and incense among pilgrims, we will take
a drive to Tsedro (Cizhong), a Tibetan Catholic village. An
active church still stands in this charming village where hymns
are sung in Tibetan to this day and where the French missionaries
apparently taught winemaking. The drainage system as well as
the vineyards will show us some of these historical, European
influences in a rural setting.
Overnight at hotel
(Note: As of Oct 2004, the road was still being built. If it
is not driveable in 2006, the full day programme can be centred
in the Jol town area!)
Day 18, Wednesday, May 31: Drive Jol - Gyalthang
After rising early for sunrise view of Khawakarpo and a Tibetan
breakfast, we drive to Gyalthang which will take us 6-7 hours.
We first pass the jagged peaks of Jol Gongsum at the pass (4295
m) before we descend towards Kungzera. Here we can see different
species of rhododendrons. This area has aptly been designated
one of the largest National Reserves in Southwest China. The
region has thousands of species of plants and is also home to
some endangered animals including the Snub-nosed Monkey (also
called Golden-haired monkey).
We visit the Nunnery, the Dhondupling Monastery and Kungzera
School before we hit the town on the banks of the Yangtze for
lunch. We continue the drive through Gonjo (artisan town) and
then a steep ascent to Thangthoe (pottery town) where corn and
barley are staples before we get to the Gyalthang plateau. As
the Gyalthang plateau and Napha Lake comes into view, we can
make a stop to hunt for the elusive blue poppy. Once in Gyalthang,
we will head to the annual Horse Festival where we get a day
and a half to enjoy the Kham culture in a festive setting.
Overnight at the Gyalthang Hotel
Day 19, Thursday, June 01 : Morning - Horse Festival and
Tibetan Medical Centre
We continue the day at the Gyalthang horse festival, visit the
Tibetan Medical Centre, the local market and the Old Town.
Farewell dinner. Overnight at the Gyalthang
Hotel
Day 20, Friday, June 02: Goodbye at Gyalthang Airport
Flight to Kunming where you will connect with international
flights.
PLEASE NOTE:
Should you be interested in extending your stay in the Orient,
Josephine will be happy to work with you on booking accommodations,
tours, etc. As an example, direct flights from Gyalthang to
Lhasa have recently begun, making a visit to this once hard-to-reach
area an easy possibility.
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$3,459.00 US per person based on double occupancy. Tour rate
is based on minimum of 12 passengers travelling together.
A non-refundable deposit of $500.00 US is required
in order to guarantee your space on this tour. Number of participants
required to guarantee the quoted rate is 12.
Final payment is due prior to Friday, March 03,
2006.
Both the deposit and the balance amounts are non-refundable.
P.S. This tour is limited to a maximum number of participants.
Reservation forms will be processed on a first come, first
served basis.
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- All accommodations in the best hotels and guest houses available.
Please note that at some of the towns, the accommodation is
very basic.
- All meals will be at select restaurants along the journey
that offer local freshly cooked food including vegetables
or meat dishes, dairy, fruit, etc.
- Transportation by Vans or Coaster buses depending on number
of passengers in the group.
- From Day 7 on we switch transportation to Mitsubishi Pajero
Jeeps.
- English speaking guides.
- All admission fees, permits, activities and sightseeing
as per itinerary.
- Domestic flight from Kunming to Lijiang on Day 2.
- International airfare. Please see airfare information below.
- Medical and /or cancellation insurance.
- Items of a personal nature such as laundry and gifts etc.
- Airport taxes/fees where applicable.
- Discretionary tips as per leader’s suggestion.
- Passport and visa expenses.
International airfare details including
rate will be available mid January 2006.
“We will always do our best to ensure the best available
airfare rates for the group. Tour Participants should be aware
that some factors such as taxes, fuel surcharges, competition
factors, etc. are beyond our control.”
A visa is required. Canadian citizens may follow the
instructions provided by the Embassy
of the People's Republic of China in Canada. US citizens
may use the services of traveldocs.
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Bookings cannot be processed unless accompanied by
a completed, signed and dated Tour
Reservation Form (2 pages).
For your convenience we also have a Credit
Card authorization form. Payments by cheque are also accepted. |
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Medical and Cancellation Insurance is strongly recommended
in order to protect your investment. Cancellation Insurance must
be requested at time of booking. |
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You are required to carry a valid passport with an
expiry date of six (6) months past reentry into your home country.
Please contact the travel clinic in your area
for advice. British Columbia residents may consult Travel
Medicine & Vaccination Centres. Telephone 604-681-5656 in Vancouver
or toll free 1-888-288-8682.
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Suggested Reading List
Goullart, Peter. Forgotten Kingdom. London: John Murray
1955
This book has been recently reprinted as a John Murray Travel
Classic, which should make it easier to find. It is also available
as an e-book.
Dedicated to Joseph Rock, this book is the best I know of
for describing life in Lijiang around the middle of the 20th
century, and for describing the various cultural groups that
lived in the area.
Goullart, Peter. Land of the Lamas: Adventures in secret
Tibet. New York: E.P. Dutton & Co, Inc. 1959 (British edition
Princes of the Black Bone)
More on Goullart’s time in this area with an emphasis on the
Tibetan people.
David-Neel, Alexandra. My Journey to Lhasa. (1927) Boston:
Beacon Press 1986
In 1923, at age 55, the author disguised herself as a pilgrim
and made her way to Lhasa, where she was the first European
woman to enter. Her adventurous and difficult travels took
her through Kham. A good read.
Aris, Michael. Lamas, Princes and Brigands: Joseph Rock’s
Photographs of the Tibetan Borderlands of China. New York:
China Institute in America 1992
Joseph Rock was a self-trained botanist who developed a fascination
with the peoples, cultures and geography of the frontier between
Tibet and China and travelled there between 1922–1949. These
are a collection of his photographs.
Rock, Joseph
Look for his photographs and articles in old National Geographics
as well as his books.
MacKinnon, John and Karen Phillipps. A Field Guide to the
Birds of China Oxford: Oxford University Press 2000
There is also a Smithsonian Field Guide but it is out of print
and hard to find.
Hilton, James. Lost Horizon (1933) New York: Harper Collins
2004
Shangri La, described in this book, is thought be inspired
in part by the writings of Joseph Rock as well as by the British
climber George Mallory. Much of the area we travel is now
referred to as Shangri La. This is also available on DVD as
a film directed by Frank Capra.
Other books of interest would be those on Tibetan Buddhism,
culture and history as well as books related to natural history.
Beginning of Itinerary


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